Granitic IslandsMahéSurrounded by coral reefs, this is the largest of the islands and hosts the international airport, the port and capital (Victoria), the majority of the population (90 per cent) and most of the hotels. It is an island of powdery white sands (there are almost 70 beaches on Mahé alone) and lush vegetation, rising through plantations of coconut palms and cinnamon to forested peaks that afford unparalleled views of neighboring islands. Excursions can be made in glass-bottomed boats from Victoria to nearby St Anne Marine National Park, which encloses
the islands of St Anne, Beacon (classified as a nature reserve), Cerf (offering accommodation in chalets and renowned for Creole food), Long (closed to the public), Round (reputed for its tuna steaks) and Moyenne (privately owned, but open to visiting tourists); or by coach, taking in such attractions as the market, the Botanical Gardens (with coco-de-mer, giant tortoises and orchids), and a replica of London’s Vauxhall Bridge Tower in Victoria, before setting off around the island to visit colonial-style mansions in graceful decline, old plantations of cinnamon and vanilla, and everywhere the greenest of vibrant green jungles. Tourists may also visit the Morne Seychellois National Park, occupying the highest part of the island. The National Museum in Victoria celebrates Seychellois history, folklore and music, and has particularly fine displays depicting the history of spice cultivation.
ElsewhereThe other Granitic Islands, 41 of them, are all located within 65km (40 miles) of Mahé. Some of the more notable islands are described below.
PRASLIN: The second-largest island is two to three hours by boat or 15 minutes by air (25 scheduled flights per day) from Mahé. It is famous for the Vallée de Mai, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, which contains the double-nutted coco-de-mer palm. Regular excursions are available to smaller islands such as Aride, Cousin, Curieuse and La Digue.
LA DIGUE: Just over three hours by schooner from Mahé or 30 minutes from Praslin, this beautiful island is the breeding ground of the rare black paradise flycatcher. There are very few cars and the ox-cart remains the principal means of transport (although bicycles may be hired). There are beautiful old plantation houses, such as Château Saint-Cloud, as well as a vanilla plantation, copra factories and superb beaches.
FREGATE: The most easterly and isolated of the granitic islands, Frégate is associated with pirates (Ian Fleming was obsessed with the notion that a pirate’s hoard was buried here). It is also the home of the almost extinct magpie robin. Frégate is 15 minutes by air from Mahé.
THÉRÈSE: Notable for its rock-pools and tortoise colony. Accessible from Port Glaud by a five-minute boat trip.
COUSIN: Two hours by boat from Mahé, Cousin was bought (in 1968) by the International Council for Bird Protection, which operates it as a nature reserve. Amongst the rare bird species thus protected are the brush warbler, the Seychelles toc-toc and the fairy tern. The best time to visit is April or May, when 1.25 million birds nest on the island. All visits to the island must be made as part of an organized tour. Local rangers act as guides; a full tour of the island takes between one and two hours. Local operators can arrange these trips, usually in conjunction with visits to other islands.
ARIDE: Two hours from Mahé, Aride is the most northerly of the granitic islands. Home to vast colonies of seabirds, in 1973 it was bought by Christopher Cadbury, President of the Royal Society for Nature Conservation. It is open to visitors from October to the end of April.
CURIEUSE: Approximately 3km (2 miles) long, Curieuse is covered by lush vegetation and huge takamaka trees. It has been designated a reserve for giant tortoises (imported from Aldabra). Day trips may be arranged from Praslin.
SILHOUETTE: Thought to have been home to one of the Indian Ocean’s most notorious pirates, Hodoul, this island may be seen from Beau Vallon Beach on Mahé. It has a population of about 200. Sights include an old plantation house of traditional Seychellois timber construction.
Coralline IslandsALDABRA: The world’s largest atoll, home to 150,000 giant land tortoises (reputedly five times more than on the Galapagos Islands) and listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, consists of 13 islands which make up about one-third of the Seychelles’ land mass. Until recently Aldabra was only accessible by boat, but Assumption Island, in the south of the atoll, now has an airstrip. Aldabra remains under strict supervision of the Seychelles Island Foundation which, nevertheless, intends to open it to a controlled number of visitors.
DENIS: Five to seven hours by boat or 30 minutes by air from Mahé, Denis is also on the edge of the continental shelf and attracts many deep-sea fishermen. Marlin may be caught from October to December. The island’s seabird population has, over the years, left rich deposits of guano, which has encouraged the growth of lush vegetation. The minimum stay is two days.
BIRD: Six to eight hours by boat or 30 minutes by plane from Mahé, this island is famous for the millions of sooty terns that migrate here to breed between May and September. Its location at the edge of the Seychelles continental shelf (the sea floor drops rapidly to 2000m/5000ft) also makes it a favored destination for fishermen. Another claim to fame is Esmeralda, said to be 150 years old and the largest tortoise in the world.
DESROCHES: The largest of the Amirantes archipelago, Desroches is 193km (120 miles) southwest of Mahé (one hour by air). The surrounding coral reef keeps the coastal waters calm and makes it an ideal destination for those seeking watersports. Although Desroches was only recently developed as a resort, there are facilities for water-skiing, windsurfing, sailing, fishing and scuba-diving; water scooters may also be hired. The diving is particularly good: there are sea cliffs, tunnels and caves – and, of course, multitudes of fish of many different species. Lessons are available. Visibility is best from September to May. Accommodation is in 20 chalets set amongst casuarina trees and coconut palms.
Plants and wildlifeAs a result of their extraordinary, isolated history, the Seychelles are rich in rare plants which flourish nowhere else on the planet. 81 species are unique survivors from the luxuriant tropical forests that covered the islands until humanity’s belated arrival two centuries ago. Outstanding amongst these is the coco-de-mer (sea coconut), native to Praslin, which grows in the Vallée de Mai. Its seed is the largest in nature, and gave rise to many legends when it was washed ashore on the coasts of Africa, India and Indonesia. Since the islands were unknown, the nuts were thought to have grown under the sea – hence the name. Among the many orchids is the vanilla, once widely cultivated for the essence produced from its aromatic pods. Its ornate leaves and lovely flowers make a wonderful display. It is not, however, necessary to travel the length and breadth of the islands to see interesting plants, as many of them can be viewed in Victoria’s Botanical Gardens. The Seychelles are also a major attraction for birdwatchers. Millions of terns nest on the islands – among them that most beautiful of seabirds, the fairy tern. Up to two million sooty terns nest on Bird Island, and on Aride can be found the world’s largest colonies of lesser noddies, roseate terns and other tropical birds. Some species, on the other hand, are less well represented and are rare almost to the point of extinction. The paradise flycatcher has dwindled to some 30 pairs on one island, La Digue. The Seychelles magpie robin is confined to Frégate, the black parrot to Praslin and the melodious brush warbler to Cousin.
It was only some 20 years ago that active conservation of endangered species began in the Seychelles. Since then, with the establishment of island sanctuaries and nature reserves, much has been done to make the Seychelles a paradise for birds – and for those who love to watch them.
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